If you walk into the rustic environs of Sam and Ella’s Chicken Palace and expect to leave with a bucket of fried chicken tucked under your arm, you might be disappointed.

The “chicken” reference doesn’t describe the menu, but rather the decor, which features all sorts of signs, logos, statues, crockery, knick-knacks, posters and other items designed with the humble yard bird in mind.

What you will find at Sam and Ella’s is perhaps the best pizza in town. At least, my family thinks so.

Because of my ongoing Alli diet (see reference in online archives), I’m rarely privileged to enjoy a Sam and Ella’s pie these days – just too much gooey-good cheese! But I slipped the bonds of my diet Monday night for a quick slice of heaven.

My husband and I always argue over which “specialty pie” is the best, so instead of one larger pizza, we had to get two. I like the Rock Island Red (red sauce, thick slices of ham, mushrooms, sweet onions pineapple a mozzarella, drizzled with honey), and he prefers the Supreme (red sauce, sausage, onions, black olives, bell peppers, mushrooms and pepperoni). The small specialty pies are $9.95, and I promise it will feed at least two people, possibly three (Tuesday we had leftovers for dinner, with nary a complaint from hubby).

Sam and Ella’s pies are never light on the toppings, and the hand-tossed crust – we actually saw them in action Monday – is the perfect balance of crispy outside, tender inside. And it only takes 20 to 25 minutes to make one, but still, if you’re in a lunch crunch, you might want to call ahead with your order. Or, you can just crowd your way in, and look for a congenial member of the wait staff – like Alisa (affectionately known by friends as “Bug”), who cheerfully helped us during our visit.

Sam and Ella’s features six of those specialty pies in three sizes (mediums cost $15.95; larges, $20.95), but you can “create your own masterpiece,” starting at $7.95 for a 10-inch, $11.45 for a 13-inch, or $14.95 for a 16-inch. Each additional topping costs $1, $1.50 and $2 respectively. And they have all the usual toppings, as well as some of the less usual – like sun-dried tomatoes, feta cheese, fresh spinach, and yes, chicken. And refills on drinks are free – that’s always a plus. Carry-out is available, and sometimes they run specials.

If you’re not in the mood for pizza (hard to imagine), you can opt for a sub sandwich for $6.50. Alisa assured us they take about the same amount of time to prepare as the pizza (same for the appetizers; the artichoke spinach dip is a real winner). All subs include chips and a pickle.

Oh, and if you absolutely must have chicken, you can get the Yard Bird sub. But I still vote for the pizza.