When it comes to barbecue, my family is finicky. That’s because my husband considers himself one of the best barbecue cooks to stoke a grill. And he’s right: Anyone who’s ever tasted his ribs (spare or baby back), pulled pork or pulled chicken (co-workers and Band Boosters among them) can attest to that.

But Fish’s Bar-B-Que comes close – as anyone who’s tried to muscle his way in at the height of rush hour can attest.

Fish’s is open for lunch and dinner, and it’s equally popular at both times of the day. It’s generally crowded, so get there early, because occasionally they may run out of certain meats. You might have to wait a bit for a booth or table, but it’s worth it – even if a brazen blonde cuts in front of you and grabs the booth you were scoping out, which happened to us the other night. While you wait, you can check out the rustic decor, which includes a fireplace, a wood stove, a variety of street signs and old advertisements, clocks, games, and even a bit of taxidermy. Or you can watch whatever’s on the big-screen TV – usually auto racing, a hunting program or some other sporting event.

With plates from $8 to $10.50 or so, and sandwiches and their accouterments at between $6 and $7, you’ll get a plate piled high with goodies – in most cases, more than you can consume in one meal. Even my 19-year-old son sometimes has to ask for a take-home box. Customers can choose from a variety of lip-smacking meats – pulled pork, beef, ribs, bologna, hot links, you name it. I recommend the pork. Many joints serve it dry, but it’s always moist at Fish’s. My husband likes to dig into the hot links. Add to your main fare some crispy Texas toast and two sides, and you’ve got more than a meal. The beans and curly fries are my favorites, but the coleslaw’s good, too.

Speaking of waitresses, Debi Bradley, a high school classmate of mine from Fort Gibson has been a server there for some time, and she’s one of the best I’ve seen in these parts. How she manages to juggle all those orders is beyond my comprehension. (How she manages to stay thin after having all those kids is also beyond my comprehension, but that’s another story.)

If you’re fishing around for great barbecue, head south on Muskogee, turn left at Oak Hill, and then after about a block, turn left again. You can’t miss Fish’s; it’s the place with all the cars.